Day 14: Siena

SIENA

After two days in the hustle and bustle of Florence, we drove to the laid-back but vibrant hill town of Siena, which boasts, according to Rick Steves, “the best town square in Italy”—il Campo.  After spending about 90 minutes on il Campo, lounging like we were at the beach, I would have to agree with him:  Siena is a great, charming town. And yes, once again, I’ll put this one on the list of places I want to visit again. 

Panorama of a sun bleached il Campo

il Campo from above

Siena is an old city that is still very much a going concern. Even though it was a bitter Renaissance rival of Florence, it didn’t wilt like many such rivals of Florence.  It’s still a happening place with a University and a soccer team, and did I mention that it contains the best town square in Italy?  It has a few great sites, like its ornate duomo (cathedral), City Hall and Tower, which, of course, we had to climb—that is, most of us.  Sam awoke with a good head cold that morning and wasn’t up for another 350-step climb, and neither was Lisa, who kept Abby at her side while Jeffrey, Emma, Daphne, and I climbed Siena’s city hall tower. 

Up to this point, this was the best tower we’ve climbed on the trip.  Siena and its surroundings are just flat out beautiful.  Pictures below.

Most of out time in the city was spent in il Campo, lounging and people watching. This square is shaped like a mildly sloped theater, which makes it conducive for lying one’s back, head propped up on backpack, as its warm brick sooth aching back muscles.  Add a little water and you’d be at the back.  Half the people of the square do just that.

We also ate dinner there on the square, and had the best meal we’ve had in the Italy so far.  The combination of food and ambience can’t be beat:

Sienna is about 90 miles from Lucca, about a 1 hour and 40 minute drive from our place in Lucca, as the route is not all Freeway (or shall I say toll way).  Just south of Siena is apparently some of the best Tuscan scenery in the region (you know, the rolling, sunflower yellow hills dotted with villas and cypress trees) but unfortunately, we didn’t get to see most of that as the three-plus hour round trip plus the six hour visit to Siena was enough for one day.

It’s amazing how exhausting travel can be.  I don’t think I could have been any more strategic in how I laid out this trip to minimize that exhaustion with alternating, “relaxing” days with “tour” days, but even the relaxing days can be exhausting.  In certain ways, driving for three hours can more tiring that running a 10K (not that I’ve ever run a 10K, but if I had  . . .).  We often don’t get home till 10 pm, and Lisa has thrown together many a meal at that hour (more on that in a minute).    

Maybe it’s the blogging or reading after everyone is down that is so tiring, but Lisa, who isn’t doing either of those things, is equally as tired.  Of course, most of her exhaustion has stemmed from finding potties for Abby, trying to keep track of all of the kids, and trying to catch up to me (as I often forge the way about 10 steps ahead, staring down at the i-phone navigation in hand, watching the blue dot on the map on my screen as we try to locate XYZ basilica or ABC museum). 

Speaking of iPhone navigation, I continue to be amazed how that thing has gotten us everywhere—the smallest of streets in the tiniest of towns is on there.  All you have to do is make sure that the blue dot—you—are walking in the right direction.  That, of course, isn’t always easy because north, south, east, and west mean very little to me when I’m outside Utah County, where I can always look at Timp or the I15 corridor for my North bearing.  To make sure you’re going the right way in some strange city with your iPhone, all you have to do is walk about ten feet in one direction, while watching which way the blue travels—closer to or further away from the red dot (the destination).  If the blue dot travels closer, you’re going the right way:  further away, then you need to flip a u-turn. 

You might laugh if you could watch our band of seven from above: one of us out front, iPhone in palm, leading (and misleading) the other 6 on a series of u-turns in the maze that is these medieval streets. All things considered, however, I’m amazed that the navigation has been as efficient as it has been. 

In closing, I mentioned earlier how often Lisa’s has thrown together a late night meal.  She’s absolutely spectacular with making something out of nothing.  One night we arrived at the store 1 minute after closing (grocery stores often close at 9 pm here), and so we drove home, somewhat dejected, not willing to fill our tummies with Mcdonald’s (open till 11 here), hoping to find something at home.  When I opened the fridge to see what we could make, I saw nothing.  Lisa, of course, saw a four-course meal of fruits, veggies, pasta,  and bread.  Twenty minutes later we had another great meal on our table (though I do wonder if we’ll ever eat pasta again after this trip, having had it for 90% of our meals here).  I’ve mentioned before how comforting a home-cooked meal is after dining in restaurant after restaurant.  Add Lisa’s knack for creating good-eats to that, and you’ve got a recipe for comfort. 

A few parting shots of Siena: