Days 1 and 2: Ancient Rome

The following video shows one of my favorite moments of the trip so far.  The scene is a sidewalk pizzeria on a street close to our apartment.  As we eat our pizza (which, by the way, really is better here), we get serenaded by the man with the guitar. Notice Abby's reaction of putting her hands over her ears and then later trying to bury her head into Lisa.  Finally notice Sam's "I'm mortified" look.  Maybe mortified is the wrong word, but you can tell she's nervous.  

Meanwhile, I'm enjoying the moment, filming, until I realize that this guy doesn't work for the restaurant but is going from table to table down the street lined with such curbside seating, singing to people, hoping to raise money.  Then I stated to feel uncomfortable, realizing that all I had in my money pouch was the 50-euro bills (each equal to about $70) that I had exchanged before I left.  And while the singing was good, it wasn't that good.  

When he finished singing, he looked directly at me, as if to say, "Pay up, sucker."  In fact, I'm sure that's exactly what he muttered under his breath in Italian.  I instinctively went for my money pouch, but then realized again that the only euros I had were large bills, and I wasn't going to part with that.  I then remembered that I had some US Dollars in my pouch. Somewhat reluctantly I pulled out a $5 bill, and then, without even attempting a word of Italian (after all, my vocabulary is about three words, including the word "Pizza"). As I handed it to him I said, "I'm sorry; this is all I have."

You should have seen the look on his face:  for a moment, he thought about giving it back (I'm not kidding).  After all, it's monopoly money to him. And what is he supposed to do with that?  The fees to exchange it would just about consume the entire amount.

Speaking of food, it's pricey over here. That might be because our apartment is within two blocks of the  Colosseum, and the restaurants all know that they can get away with charging tourists more.  And speaking of our apartment, this is just one of many apartments we're renting during our journey. For the most part, any time we are remain in a place for three nights or more, we have rented an apartment (check out www.homeaway.com). Such a better way to stay than hotels:  cheaper, more space, a family room, a kitchen. To stay in a decent hotel so close to old center of Rome would be about $350+ per room per night: as in $700 to sleep my family per night.  In contrast, our 3 bedroom, 2 bathroom house costs $900 euros  (about $1,250) for SIX days (just over $200 per night).

The shot clip below shows us walking on the street outside of our apartment with our luggage:

With the Colosseum so close, most of our first two days have focused on Ancient Rome:  Colosseum, the Forum, and a more obscure treat, the Basilica of  San Clemente.  We hired a tour guid, Francesa Caruso (a Rick Steves recommendation) to spend two days in four-hour increments with us. Today, we started our time with her in San Clemente, an 11th century church that was built upon a 4th century church that was built upon 1st century church. Fascinating stuff.  You literally walk down stairs to each archeologically dug out structure, passing through 2,000 years of history in about 40 feet.  As you look at the ceiling in one structure you are looking that basement floor of another.  Every few hundred years, floods or other natural distaster would cover up one building, and then then they would just build another on top of it. Much of Rome, the eternal city, is built upon a foundation of ruins.  In fact, one of the reason why his large city only has two metro lines currently is because every time they try to build a new line they run into more ruins, and decide to stop.

We have visited the Colosseum twice. I ended up buying two sets of tickets on accident (let's just say the website to purchase Colosseum tickets isn't exactly user-friendly), and of course, they wouldn't refund one of them.  By the way, before I forget to mention it: about the best advise I got before I came was to purchase tickets to major venues online and in advance, which allows you to skip the 1 hour lines that are typical here.  I came to see Rome; not the back of a German's head.  It's like having a fast-pass to Disneyland for ALL of the rides.  Walking past all the poor souls wasting their vacation in line feel quite nice. That could have been me, I say to myself, trying to restrain a taunt as I pass by, "Do you like pain?"  Or:  "Hey, have you ever heard a guide book?  Buy one next time! Yeah, they're worth the $20 you just lost standing in line."

Back to my to double purchase of Colosseum tickets:  instead of being mad about spending another 78 euros (100+ dollars) on Colosseum tickets, we just went twice:  once yesterday on our own, and today with the colosseum's underground tour (9 euro more person), which highlights the underground section of the colosseum that lay beneath that arena floor, where they kept gladiators and animals who were then "magically" lifted through an ingenious pulley system up through floor of arena.  I can hear the crowd rhythmically chanting now, "Maximus, Maximus!"  Both tours were money well spent.  That structure is even more impressie than I thought it would be. I can only imagine what it might have looked like in its splendor before it was looted and pillaged over the centuries by churches and politicians who used it as a kind of quarry after the fall of Rome:  effaced with marble, plaster, statues, bright colors, and an ingenious awning that actually made it the first "domed" stadium in recorded history. 

Lisa reminded me that the slaughter of both humanity and beast on that floor would put our R-rated films to shame.  You know, despite how bad the world is, I have to agree that there are many aspects of society that had mad major progress

The Forum was equally grand and impressive.  I can only imagine what this place was like when ancient Rome had one million residents--a size of epic proportions in one city for ancient times.  After the fall of Rome, the city shrunk to just 20,000 residents.

So far we have paced ourselves pretty good.  After our tour of San Clemente, the Colosseum, and the Forum, we were pretty wiped out.  Despite our drug intake on day one, we're still pretty hammered, and if I didn't feel duty-bound to record our day, I would have been asleep a long time ago! 

To avoid burn-out, we took a vacation from our vacation for about four hours today.  Lisa took an afternoon nap, and I took the kids grocery and SIM card shopping.  If one is going to be in Europe for any significant amount of time, and use ANY data for his/her smart phone, then it's a good idea to pick up a European SIM card.  For example, I used my phone to guide us around the city with its map for a total of about 20 minutes yesterday and 15 minutes today.  The bill would have been about $150 just for that for roaming data charges (until I called Verizon and asked them to put me on an international roaming plan, which took the bill from $150 for $59).  

Our Italian SIM cards cost us about 22 euros each for the month, which includes a gig per phone of data.  It's the only way to go.  I got one for those of my kids that have cell phones, which now allows us to roam a little (pun intended) without mom and dad panicking.  

So far, we're having a phenomenal time; what an incredible place. Lisa has only wanted to punch me just once, the kids are getting along well, and they are totally engaged in what they're doing.  I really don't know where they came from.  They like this stuff, and look forward to just about everything we do.  This is no doubt broadening their perspective. I continue to remind them that they don't do it wrong in Italy, but rather, they just do it differently.  We've asked them to take off their American glasses, soak up this experience, and appreciate the seed of modern civilization.  They are.

Good night.  I'll end with string of photos form the first two days:

Do they come any cuter?

The front doof our apartment.

A wise-man once said, "All you have to do is marry a babe!"

Panorama of the Colosseum at night.

Dad and always-photogenic Emma.  Can you tell that I'm about ready to fall asleep. Guess even Provigil can't totally make up for a week of no sleep!

The kids on the famous "Spanish Steps."

More Spanish Steps

View form Palatine Hill, the home of the emperors.

Francesca Caruso, roman tour-guide, who came from an American mother and an Italian father.

The girls standing on the reconstructed portion of the Arena floor.  You must purchase the "underground" tour to get this perspective.

Portal LL of the Colosseum--this was the model for all future football stadiums.

On our way to dinner in a rainstorm this evening:  good thing some capitalists were out selling umbrellas at the same time!

The girls in the courtyard of our apartment building.

"Dad, why is Daphne doing this to my face?"