Monday, June 10, 2013

Day 7: From Rome to Pompeii

Saturday morning I picked up our 9-passenger Renault Traffic shortly after the 8 am opening time at Termini station.  For some reason, the 9-passenger typical euro-van--which I have rented on each trip to Europe with my family (1998, 2011, and 2013)--is for some reason cheaper than your typical 7-passenger American-style minvan.  I'm not sure why but I suspect it's because the 7-passenger Dodge Caravan type van must be loaded with bells and whistles, whereas the 9-passenger vans I have rented (a Renault and a Mercedes) after been stripped down vehicles with no frills, but tons of space.  Even if I didn't need 9 spots (which I will need when my parents join our journey in Venice), I would always go with the 9-passenger deal--less expensive, more room the family, easy to drive, and they're almost always diesel, which means that, theoretically I'm getting better gas mileage with these crazy European gas prices.

With help of Google Maps guiding the way, I was able to navigate a series of one way roads to our apartment from Termini, and our of Rome with no hiccups or wrong turns.  Real maps are handy for giving perspective, but you couldn't pay me enough to trade in phone maps--particularly when they talk to you--for a traditional map (in fact, after my last trip to France, where I has purchased a Michelen map prior to leaving Utah but never actually pulled it out of my bag.  This trip, I didn't even consider buying one.

Before I leave Rome, let me sum up our experience there.  Simply put, it exceeded our expectations.  Of all the destinations we were visiting, the thought of Rome gave me the most anxiety:  it seemed Chaotic and overwhelming.  We didn't find either of those in Rome.   I attribute that to the following reasons:


  • Our tour guide for the first two days, Francesca Caruso (click here for her site), who provided us the perfect foundation for our visit, tying ancient and modern together.  Perhaps the highest compliment that we could pay to her would be something Sam said the other night, "I think the most important thing I've learned on this trip is how much art tells a story; before I came here I just saw the pretty picture; now I am starting to see the stories."  Sam's statement echoed what Francesca taught us within our first 15 minutes of our tour.
  • Our location:  it was perfect and a great value.  Because we were within 5 minutes of the historic center, the metro, grocery stores, a gazillion gelaterias, getting anywhere was very easy, and after two days of being a little lost, I finally got oriented.
  • We didn't cram it in:  We took six days to do what most would have tried to do in three, hectic, non-stop days.  We saw the "biggies" first and we blocked out time for those, and then we filled in the gaps with spur of the moment decisions on what to do from a list of possible things to see.
  • We bought tickets to all major sites before we left:  I've talked about this at length, so I wont repeat myself other than to say that if you're coming to Rome and you don't this than you will probably hate Rome.
  • Rome is just beautiful:  What more can I say: a monument, a fountain,  or a ruin just every third step.  I could spend a lifetime there and not discover it all.
  • The weather: I was told to avoid Rome at all costs in July where the crowds, heat, and humidity can choke you.  That's one reason why I made it our first stop at the first of June. We also lucked out with temps in the low 70's and a few refreshing, short rain showers here and there. 
Perhaps the highest complement that I can pay Rome is that I'll be back (at least once and probably more).

Abby and I dancing to some live music at Campo de Fiori, a lively plaza (Piazza) in the heart of Rome.

The family at Piazza Navona, another awesome plaza full of life!

Mom and Jeffrey standing in front of yet another great Bernini sculpture in the center of Piazza Navona.


On to Pompeii

First, I'm not sure why Pompeii is spelled with one "i" sometimes and two "i's" sometimes.  If you know, enlighten me.  Regardless of how it is spelled, Pompeii exceeded my expectations:  it was simply stunning.  

You know the story:  Mount Vesuvius to the north erupted in AD 74, spewed a cloud of ashes for 18 straight hours, and this thriving, bustling economic center of typical Roman life was obliterated and covered in 30 feet of ashes before the last 2,000 of its residents could escape.  After one day, it was buried, and remained so until the mid 1700's when what must be one the greatest archeological treasure troves ever to be discovered became unearthed.  

Ironically, what destroyed the city--being buried in 30 feet of ash--also preserved it from natural decay and later Barbarian invaders. While the rest of ancient Rome was subject to looting and the weather, Pompeii lay protected in the earth.  I was astonished how well preserved it was.

We spent about four hours there, and didn't scratch the surface.  I could easily return there as well. The kids were engaged, as we all listened to yet another free Rick Steves walking tour of the city.  I'll close with a few photos from our visit.  

Inside a roman bath.

More roman bath--these guys had the "spa" concept down.

Sam and Emma at a fast food joint in Pompeii, likely called McPomps.  Yes, they really had these all of the place.

Picture of fam with Mt. Vesuvius in the background.  Crossing our fingers it didn't erupt.

Occasionally, Lisa wrests the Camera from me gets in a shot or two.

At wheat grinder in the bakery.

A 2,000 year old Pizza oven.  Okay, so it was  bread oven, but if Vesuvius hadn't erupted, I'm sure this oven would be baking Pizzas today.

Emmas stands on a crosswalk on this one-way road (signified by the one large stone in the middle).  The Pompeiians would flood their streets frequently to clean them. These stones allowed citizens to cross the flooded roads without getting their feet wet.  Also, since chariots axels were a standard height and width, these stones were just large enough  for a chariot to pass over them.  If you look closely you can see the grooves from chariot wheels ground into the sides of the road.

Downtown Pompeii.  Add roofs (which caved in during the 30 foot ash dump) and you could live there today.

Another good example of chariot grooves.

Hide and seek in the columns.

The kids at the theater.






1 comment:

  1. So cool! Ever since I learned about Pompei, I have wanted to visit there.

    ReplyDelete